Hello all we have arrived in Thailand, and are we ever happy. Don't get us wrong, we loved India and most of the experiences that we had there. India is a really interesting country, and has a lot going on. It is however more work than a happy vacation. You really need to watch out as most people will try to take advantage of you and over charge you. Getting from one place to the next is always nerve wracking, as you have no idea where you are going. So needless to say when we got off the plane in Bangkok and into the taxi to our hotel we were doing a happy dance in our seats. Again we loved India but this felt like the first time we were truly able to relax in a long time. Our last 12 days were spent in Darjeeling. We relaxed for days and only set out to explore the town when we felt like it. Seeing tea plantations, a zoo, mountaineering institute, and sampling the food that had more of an Asian taste than Indian, all contributed to a laid back feel. Life in Darjeeling is slower. We even saw a movie and took a visit to the Hospital.
We'll start with that last word first. As we're sure you'll all just skip down to that paragraph anyways. Liza had been experiencing severe back pain for quite some time. After several weeks of her dealing with it, we decided that this may not just be some kind of muscle spasm or pinched nerve and went to the hospital. The doctor saw us almost immediately and after a quick exam concluded that it was probably a muscular type of pain. He ordered an X-ray and ultrasound just to be safe. The X-ray was performed immediately. When we walked into the room there was an old machine with an analog display that looked like it had not been used since WW2. Liza changed into a stained gown and the X-ray was taken. We returned the next day, for the ultrasound. Liza had about a litre of water in her bladder and was ready to blow. Since we had to wait it became very uncomfortable and she just wanted to leave. It was probably just muscle pain any ways. After some reassurance she finally got into the Ultrasound room and was told that she was having gallbladder attacks and would have to have her gall bladder removed. Apparently this is not that much of an emergency and is able to wait until we get home. Our doctor has been informed and asked to schedule the surgery for our return. We were not having the surgery there was for sure. Especially since the bathrooms were the worst we had seen in all of India. That is pretty bad, considering. So that takes care of that story, now on to Darjeeling. The beautiful hill station, that is a vacation from India.
The Happy Valley tea plantation is were Harrods (exclusively) gets their tea. For those of you that don't know Harrods is a very expensive British store. They may still have a store in the Toronto Pearson Airport. We sat in a tea room waiting for a tour guide and were treated to a lovely cup of Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe #1 Tea (try and say that ten times fast). It is apparently the finest in the world especially since it was first flush (first pluck of the season). The pickers are given tea for home use, and we were sold some (under the table). The money we spent on it went directly to the workers and saved us a bundle on the stuff from the store. The tour took us through the factory and we saw the process from fresh leaves to separated fermented leaves ready for packaging. The bits are separated into 5 parts. From the whole tip (best), to the dust (lowest quality for tea bags). A quick tour but very educational.
The big thing to do in Darjeeling is walk. There are incredible views from every road. The views apparently get better at other times of the season. So good that you can see Kanchendzonga the worlds third highest mountain. The zoo is a great walk from our hotel. There are views of the valleys below at every turn. The zoo itself is probably one of the best in the world. The pens that the animals live in are very well maintained and are basically large walled in parts of forest. The zoo is responsible for some of the best captive breeding programs in the world, for rare Himalayan species such as the red panda and snow leopard. The tourists going through were quite irritating though. I saw an adult woman yelling at sleeping wolves to try and make them move. She was standing beside a sign written in English and Hindi saying: "Don't harass the animals" and "SHhhhhhhh". I guess some people never grow up. Attached to the zoo is the Himalayan mountaineering institute. There you can see a statue of Tenzing Norgay that was erected by Sir Edmund Hillary. Opposite this is the place where he was cremated. Tenzing Norgay was Hillary's Sherpa and the two were the first to ever summit Everest. I know not exactly the most exciting stuff, but it's probably the closest to Everest I'll ever get.
On another day we went to a place called Hayden Hall. It is a volunteer organization that helps to educate and gain employment for women from the villages. Aunt Joan volunteered here in 1979 as a nurse. We were able to meet with Noreen who was still there and remembered Joan fondly. She showed us photos of Joan (she looks the same) and we were taken on a tour. On the tour we bumped into a large group of children who were so interested in us. They all greeted us with Namastes and touched our hands, and our hearts too.
Two days after leaving Darjeeling we finally got to Kolkota. We meant to stay in a hotel but our taxi driver couldn't find it (Typical). So we spent the night in the airport. We are so looking forward to our three weeks here in Thailand. We already decided that we want to return. We are also really looking forward to returning home (except for that work thing)and seeing you all. This is probably our second last entry...
Until then take care.
Mark and Liza
Friday, May 22, 2009
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
The Cool Off
Well here we are in Darjeeling. After spending two weeks in the heat (45+) of Varanasi, we feel kind of cold. That's right-cold, and it's about 20 degrees here. Darjeeling seems like it's going to be amazing. Our room is the nicest we've had in a long time, and the temperature is right (once we get used to it). It seems there is a lot to do here as well: from tea plantation tours, hikes to himalayan view points and possibly white water rafting, to just strolling around enjoying the gardens, the zoo and the so far great food (of course). We may even check out a movie at the movie theatre. We are both very excited to explore this town.
Varanasi was an incredible experience. Leading up to it we were both getting a little tired of travelling, and so a rest seemed to be required. Varanasi was the right place to do it. At first Liza thought that she would get bored and stir crazy, but she came to appreciate the break and all that Varanasi had to offer. We went shopping several times and ended up having to buy yet another suitcase (we seem to have a problem).
We took boat rides. One in the evening and one in the morning (5:30am yikes). The boat makes it's way up the river so that you can see the Ghats. Along the ghats you get to see life unfold. People bathing, doing laundry, playing cricket, yoga sessions, bands playing, getting married and cremating their relatives. Seeing this was a real eye opener. There was even a body floating in the river. The boatman explained that this was a holy man and so was not cremated and left for the river to take away. It was explained later that holy people, children, and pregnant women are not cremated. It was difficult, and yet fascinating to see. All aspects of life and death are played out by the river side. I saw one woman doing laughing yoga. It was the eeriest thing I have ever seen. She sat in lotus on a pedestal and as she put her arms in the air she would laugh maniacally. It sent shivers up my spine. Also seen was a team of rollerskaters (not rollerbladers) going around a ring of neon coloured pylons, doing all sorts of funky tricks. This brought a smile to my face.
At Liza's urging I took some Tabla lessons. It was a great idea, and truly one of my highlights. My teacher (Mishra) was a talented young musician from a long line of famous musicians. He taught me the Tabla alphabet, and some words. He then told me that if I practiced these well that eventually I would be able to make my own sentences. Apperently the Tabla set I bought was of 'beginner' quality and he took me to his friends shop where the finest tablas in Varanasi are made. I didn't buy anything because mine are good enough to learn on and eventually I can save up and buy a really good set on line. Albeit at twice the cost.
Apparently most tourists only go to Varanasi for a few days, but we stayed. Since we stayed several shop keepers, and soldiers (they are everywhere) came to know us and smiled every time we walked by. We were probably the only tourists (or locals) that greeted them. It was fun walking through the alleys and hearing Namaste instead of come have a look at my shop. Don't get me wrong we got a lot of that too. Another highlight was seeing goats all over the place. One day we bought a loaf of bread and fed a bunch of the goats. We are now fantasising about getting a pet goat. We could make our own cheese and have a cool pet too.
Liza and I also met a lovely couple from Toronto and have been spending some time with them. It's nice to have friends and people to go meet for dinner dates and such. They came up to Darjeeling as well and we may go up to Sikim with them. We haven't decided. The only thing to do in Sikim is see incredible views of the Himalayas (if the weather is right). But it could be a chance to see some of the worlds highest peaks. Especially now that we aren't going to Nepal anymore. We will see.
Until next time.
Varanasi was an incredible experience. Leading up to it we were both getting a little tired of travelling, and so a rest seemed to be required. Varanasi was the right place to do it. At first Liza thought that she would get bored and stir crazy, but she came to appreciate the break and all that Varanasi had to offer. We went shopping several times and ended up having to buy yet another suitcase (we seem to have a problem).
We took boat rides. One in the evening and one in the morning (5:30am yikes). The boat makes it's way up the river so that you can see the Ghats. Along the ghats you get to see life unfold. People bathing, doing laundry, playing cricket, yoga sessions, bands playing, getting married and cremating their relatives. Seeing this was a real eye opener. There was even a body floating in the river. The boatman explained that this was a holy man and so was not cremated and left for the river to take away. It was explained later that holy people, children, and pregnant women are not cremated. It was difficult, and yet fascinating to see. All aspects of life and death are played out by the river side. I saw one woman doing laughing yoga. It was the eeriest thing I have ever seen. She sat in lotus on a pedestal and as she put her arms in the air she would laugh maniacally. It sent shivers up my spine. Also seen was a team of rollerskaters (not rollerbladers) going around a ring of neon coloured pylons, doing all sorts of funky tricks. This brought a smile to my face.
At Liza's urging I took some Tabla lessons. It was a great idea, and truly one of my highlights. My teacher (Mishra) was a talented young musician from a long line of famous musicians. He taught me the Tabla alphabet, and some words. He then told me that if I practiced these well that eventually I would be able to make my own sentences. Apperently the Tabla set I bought was of 'beginner' quality and he took me to his friends shop where the finest tablas in Varanasi are made. I didn't buy anything because mine are good enough to learn on and eventually I can save up and buy a really good set on line. Albeit at twice the cost.
Apparently most tourists only go to Varanasi for a few days, but we stayed. Since we stayed several shop keepers, and soldiers (they are everywhere) came to know us and smiled every time we walked by. We were probably the only tourists (or locals) that greeted them. It was fun walking through the alleys and hearing Namaste instead of come have a look at my shop. Don't get me wrong we got a lot of that too. Another highlight was seeing goats all over the place. One day we bought a loaf of bread and fed a bunch of the goats. We are now fantasising about getting a pet goat. We could make our own cheese and have a cool pet too.
Liza and I also met a lovely couple from Toronto and have been spending some time with them. It's nice to have friends and people to go meet for dinner dates and such. They came up to Darjeeling as well and we may go up to Sikim with them. We haven't decided. The only thing to do in Sikim is see incredible views of the Himalayas (if the weather is right). But it could be a chance to see some of the worlds highest peaks. Especially now that we aren't going to Nepal anymore. We will see.
Until next time.
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